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臺階型海脊俘獲波的實(shí)驗(yàn)研究

單位：1. 河海大學(xué) 海岸災(zāi)害及防護(hù)教育部重點(diǎn)實(shí)驗(yàn)室, 江蘇南京 210098;
2. 河海大學(xué) 港口海岸與近海工程學(xué)院, 江蘇南京 210098;
3. 國家海洋環(huán)境預(yù)報(bào)中心, 北京 100081;
4. 自然資源部海洋減災(zāi)中心, 北京 100194

關(guān)鍵詞：俘獲波海嘯臺階型海脊模型實(shí)驗(yàn)

分類號：P731.25

出版年·卷·期（頁碼）：2020·37·第二期（29-37）

摘要：

基于物理模型實(shí)驗(yàn)研究瞬態(tài)沖擊波在臺階地形上傳播過程，揭示由于反射而在海脊上出現(xiàn)的波浪俘獲現(xiàn)象。結(jié)果表明：在瞬態(tài)波產(chǎn)生區(qū)域附近，海脊上所測到的先導(dǎo)波即為最大波，其由泄漏至海脊外的深水波繞射至海脊所致。隨著傳播距離的增加，由于頻散效應(yīng)的影響，先導(dǎo)波逐漸減小，沿臺階近似直線傳播的海脊俘獲波和在臺階上曲折傳播的海脊俘獲波逐漸顯現(xiàn)。在距離波浪產(chǎn)生較遠(yuǎn)區(qū)域所測的最大波晚于先導(dǎo)波出現(xiàn)，且這些由俘獲波所疊加而成的最大波隨著傳播距離的增加而呈現(xiàn)出更加復(fù)雜的波面過程。

Physical model experiments are conducted in this paper to investigate the propagation process of transient waves on the stepped ridge and to reveal the trapped waves over ridge due to the reflection at the borderline. The results show that the front wave recorded over ridge is the biggest wave, which is generated by the diffraction of deep water wave at the ridge. Along with the increase of the propagation distance, the front wave train of the generated transient wave decreases due to the dispersion effect, and the trapped waves propagating straightly along the step and zigzagging over the ridge start to gradually appear.. The biggest wave recorded in the far-field area is the superposition of the trapped wave components, which reveals complex wavefront process along with the propagation distance.

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